Now it's acting up again.Įrror lights - When it's not working, I'm usually sleeping so it's hard to see it in action. Anyway, this made me a little nervous so I never installed it since by this time it was summer and we hadn't had any more issues. My understanding is that this indicates something about the heat range that it will open or close at (so 130 to 160 or 120 to 160).
But I never installed it, mostly because I noticed the replacement said L160F-40 and the original is 160F-30. I went to an appliance parts store that gave me what they said was the manufacturer's official replacement part. He said there might be an issue with the limit switch, but rather than charging $200 for it, he showed me what I could buy for $8 and install myself. Since it had started working, he wasn't sure what was wrong but cleaned the flame sensor. I think now it was the same behavior, because when the repair guy got there, it was working again. History - A couple years ago, it went out (we thought) in the middle of the coldest night of the year.
If I'm understanding correctly, this also matches with the error lights I get (see below) I can also circumvent the cooldown period by manually shutting off and restoring power (which I assume is why flipping the heat off and back on works). Shut it down!" That triggers a 2-3 hour lockout before attempting another start. My theory based on what little I understand of furnaces is that it's fine most of the time but sometimes when it attempts to start and triggers a kill switch a few times in a row, either because of the flame sensors saying "no flame, shut off the gas and take a break!" or the limit switch saying "we're overheating. I can get it going again by turning the thermostat from "heat" to "off" and then back to "heat." But sometimes it will go a couple weeks with no issues. We find it a couple degrees cooler than it should be when we wake up in the morning. Since it got cold (single digits at night), it's been happening most days.
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